Inspired by the golden age of watchmaking, BUUR is the outcome of much research, theorisation and application.
The 50’s is our spiritual home. Somewhere along the mediterranean riviera between Cannes and Portofino. Sipping daiquiris with the likes of Marlon Brando, Dean Martin, Brigitte Bardot and co - we seek inspiration from accomplished individuals of the past. Using time as a medium to reflect, take note and explore, our watches are a humble representation of this period: small in size, curved glass and intimate dials are all defining traits. Swiss made and constructed in Stabio using superior materials we endeavour them to be objects reflective of previous years but designed for today’s challenges.
The idea of BUUR+ watches was concieved by me, Thomas Buur Bækgaard, in 2017 when I was searching for a vintage moonphase watch. At that time prices for vintage pieces were already soaring high, and the moonphase watches made by Omega, Zodiac and others were out of reach for me. Similar watches made by less known brands in poorer conditions could be bought for as little as 500 EUR but there was always the risk that they would need repairing for 500 EUR or more. And they didn't quite look as good as the Omegas, the Zodiacs, the Gübelins or the Leonidas watches. At the same time I was researching for a project about which beautiful underrated vintage watches one could obtain for less than 1000 EUR. However I quickly realized that I was 10 years too late. This lead me to the idea of creating the watches I couldn't find on eBay or Chrono24 for a price I myself would be willing to pay.
A few distinct choices were made from the top.
I would start out with Swiss quartz movements for two reasons. To keep the price below the vintage pieces AND to maintain a slim profile for the watches. Mechanical watches with many complications are higher than their quartz cousins (unless you buy Audemars Piquet or Bulgari).
I would use curved dials and curved hands, and domed hesalite/plexi glass insted of sapphire crystal. Hesalite glass is what was used on watches in the 50s and although not as scratch resistant as sapphire crystal, it can bend and will not crack as easy if dropped from heights. Also any scratches are easy to buff out with a polishing cloth and some Polywatch.
Size wise I went with 38mm which was considered jumbo at the time. I was used to wearing a 35mm Girard-Perregaux from 1949 on my wrist so the idea of putting a 40mm let alone a 42mm watch on my less than average sized wrists was not an option. 38mm was a good size, and even today we will rather make watches in 37mm and 36mm than in 39mm. Everybodys favourite Rolex Explorer, the 1016, is a 36mm watch and it is beautiful (if you can find one for sale).
They had to be Swiss made or Made in Germany - I ultimatly went with Switzerland. Everybody trusts the Swiss to make great quality watches.
I would try my best to reduce plastic in the packaging and reduce wasteful and meaningless use of display boxes which lead to the leather travel case as packaging.
So there you have it. The first moonphase watch made by me was conceptualized.
Have a nice day